When I first decided to start a blog I was leaving for the Peace Corps.  The blog’s primary purpose was to keep my close friends and family up to date with my new experiences.  Since then my blogging has evolved and my readers have expanded.  While writing my blog in PNG, I found myself writing about social, political and developmental issues (Disclaimer: I am far from expert-analyst status, remember the blog was entitled “Looking Through Another’s Eyes”) But mostly I use blogging as a form of a personal journaling.  To remind myself of things- some big, most small-that have made big impacts on my life; to remind me of the lessons I have learned ( most the hard way), the people I have met and places I have been.  Which brings me to the 7th List of 10: Favorite travel destinations of mine in ’09 and why

1. Singapore is a busy and clean city with loads of diversity.  It has endless shopping along Orchid Road and it is an easy city to explore.  Offering lotus flowers and lighting incense at temples, strolling fish markets in China town, eating the most delicious spicy foods in Little India and stopping at Raffles Hotel for a Singapore Sling!
2. Yogyakarta is a wonderful blend of Indonesian culture with the magnificent Borobudur (Buddhist) and Prambanan (Hindu) Temples, delicious vegetarian dishes and Via Via’s off the beaten path tours.  I particularly enjoyed the Religion Tour of temples and learning about the religious blends unique to Java. Take time to take a batik course, a traditional art.  Enjoy a cup of Kopi Luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world.
3. Langkawi, Malaysia  is a great place to relax on the beach (and by that I mean drinking Dutch liquor and having your very wn karaoke party)!!!.  You can enjoy inexpensive luxuries like the Red Tomato’s Mexican pasta dish once your taste buds grow tired of the endless plates of Nasi Goreng!  And did I mention the all night dance clubs!?
4. Sepik River, East Sepik Papua New Guinea was the most incredible adventure of my life!  Crocodiles, canoes, fishing villages, marsupials, carvings, weaving, a culture that must be experienced!
5. Kar Kar Island, PNG, beautiful black sand beaches, lush coconut plantations, and volcano!
6. Goroka, Eastern Highlands PNG is known for its incredible coffee, Asaro Mudmen, and the Goroka festival
7. Hong Kong–top class Asian city!  Food, shopping, culture, ferry from Kowloon to Victoria Harbour.  Beware of “real genuine copies”
8 and 9. The border crossing between Jayapura Indonesia and Vanimo, Papua New Guinea.  The views are stunning, lush tropical trees and the pristine sea.  The vibrant colors, the pureness of it all, simply untouched.  The traditional villages spotted along the coast.  All this contrasted by the adventure of riding with armed guards during the often times unstable border crossing! There is notable contrast between the two border towns, each boast its own version of beauty and beast.
10. Madang, PNG.  Not called the “Prettiest Town in the Pacific” for nothing.  Singsings, flora and fauna, spectacular reefs and fishes, countless islands with an amazing mountainous backdrop.  A must for all adventurous travelers and avid divers!

I blinked, I arrived in Battambang! Around the world in under 60 days! A shock for the senses for this island girl who appreciates the slow pace of island life.  I enjoy the lazy days under the shade of a mango tree, watching the tide roll in and out.  Just as quickly as the tide, I left my life in PNG to start another in Cambodia.  Through it all- the changes, the goodbyes said and those left unsaid, the things I found, the things I lost, the things I left behind- I am trying my best to enjoy riding the tides of life.   I catch myself writing blog after blog in my head, but I never seem to find the right words.   There is so much to say and I am experiencing such a range of emotions that most of my sentences are incoherent.  Which is why I decided I would do these lists in the first place.  It’s to my advantage that the next ‘List of 10′ is about the reasons why I decided to work in development.  My first days in Battambang were a vivid reminder. The words came flooding over me.

1. Because of my desire to discover the world and my commitment to life long learning.

2. Once my eyes were opened to the effects of poverty and its relationship to disability and access to an appropriate education, I knew this is what I wanted to do with my life.

3. Because I feel that one person can make a difference.

4.  I am an optimist

5.  I am passionate about human rights and taking a stand to protect them.

6. I am curious by nature and am always intrigued by discovery, exploration, and experiencing new things.

7. Because after my first mission in Zambia and seeing the things I saw and experiencing the things I experienced, I knew I could not simply return to America and bury my head in the sand.

8. Because I knew I would never get the same satisfaction from life in the States where basic services are more readily accessible and things are more or less “easy.”

9. I enjoy the international experience of living and working with people from across the globe.

10. Because it challenges me every single moment of every single day.



  1. Eat Mexican food and drink margaritas.
  2. Soak in a hot bubble bath surrounded by candles
  3. Go to the library and check out more books than I could ever read.
  4. Click away on internet sites mesmerized by the speed, catch up on International news, pop culture (i.e., hilarious youtube clips), hulu and download books, movies and music to my ipod.
  5. Visit friends and family across the US and  encourage everyone to use Skype (hint hint)
  6. Share stories with my grandmother, Aunt Ann and Uncle Larry
  7. Do all the necessities such as visit the dental hygienist, my family doctor, and my best friend Brandy, the hair extraordinaire.
  8. Prepare a nice meal for my family which brings us all together around the table laughing, catching up on all the latest news and filling them in on my adventures.
  9. Stock up on everything I usually can’t get when abroad taking my sweet time to stroll up and down every aisle although a part of me feels guilty for indulging in the availability of it all
  10. Go to the cinema, brew pubs, cafes, live music venues …a taste of American culture.

1. Population: about 15 million

2. Capital: Phnom Pehn

3. Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious building, the mother of all temples, matched by only a select spots on earth such as Machu Picchu

4. Number of monks in Cambodia: 60,000

5. The Cambodian society was completely destroyed by about 500,000 tons of American bombs from 1972-1974

6. During the Khmer Rouge revolution (1975-1979) an estimated 2 million Cambodians (some say as many as 3 million) out of 7 million died by the hands of the Khmer Rouge.

7. As the foot is the lowest part of the body, it is regarded as the symbol of dishonor in indignity.  Using your foot to point to something, to kick the legs of somebody etc is considered as an offense, insult, or humiliation to that person.

8. The working day begins at 7.30am, with a break for a siesta from 11.30am to 2pm, and ends at 5pm

9. The official currency is the Khmer Riel, with a stable exchange rate of 4000 Riels per $1 USD

10.The politics of Cambodia formally takes place as a constitutional monarchy, operated as a parliamentary representative democracy.   The Prime Minister of Cambodia is the head of government while the King is the head of state.

1. I discovered an organization whose approach to disability respects human rights and the dignity of all human beings in all their diversity.

2. I will work on a project promoting a replicable pilot model of inclusive education for disabled children in Cambodia.

3. HI aligns perfectly with my desires to work alongside vulnerable groups, persons with disabilities, and refugees to address disability issues, humanitarian crises and the effects of extreme poverty.

4. The project has a budget, so no more raising chickens to earn money for trainings!

5. HI is international, non-governmental, non-profit, non-religious and non-political organization

6. I will learn to ride a motorbike!

7.  HI has 240 programs in 60 countries, so there is a vast network and possibilities to remain with the organization in various programs and countries.

8. Cambodia is safe and calm and with no major security problems I can be out at night!

9. There is a wealth of expertise within HI in areas of emergency, rehabilitation, the fight against land mines and cluster bombs, physical and mental health, inclusion, and the rights and politics of disability.

10. I will have a salary!!  These years of volunteering are paying off.

(In no particular order…except for Asaro Mud Men…they have to be #1)

1.  Asaro Mud Men

2. ‘Bird of Paradise’ flowers

3. Jolanda, Marleen and the Nissan.

4. Flying Foxes

5. Kranget Island

6. Kundiawa Coffee Shop

7. Bilums

8. Eden’s Restaurant

9. Kalibobo Second Hand Shop

10. Kulau

Too distracted, yet too focused, I find myself continuously procrastinating writing this blog.   I do however, find myself busy writing list after list.   I am reminded of the years I spent focused on getting my Master’s– continuous lists that prompt me to “see other list.”

Since I seem to lack the mental capacity to string words together to share my good bye to PNG and my new beginnings for 2010 in a thoughtful and meaningful way, I will do what I seem to do best lately—make lists.  Inspired by a blogger who I don’t know, but I feel as if I do — I have been reading her words from Cambodia everyday – I have decided to write 10 lists of 10.

Here we go!  My first list is actually the things I plan to write lists of 10 about.

  1. Things I plan to write lists of 10 about
  2. Favorites of Papua New  Guinea
  3. Reasons I am excited about my new job with Handicap International
  4. Facts about Cambodia
  5. Things I always do while at home in the States
  6. Reasons why I decided to work in development abroad
  7. Favorite travel destinations of mine in ’09 and why
  8. Things I need to do before leaving for Cambodia
  9. Facts about disability, poverty and education in developing countries
  10. Reasons why you should read my new blog I will be writing from Cambodia

Three days in Asia’s World City while in transit home for the holidays.  This multicultural gateway is a complete 180 from PNG, a sophisticated metropolis where culture is respected and cutting edge technology embraced.  Its vibrant, bustling, developed, everything that PNG is not.  It has superb infrastructure with efficent transport.  The leather seats and wood grain interior on the airport shuttle was a far cry from  Madang’s PMV buses where the doors fall off!

Close to midnight I arrived at my 4 Star hotel  (less than US 100), but unlike Madang’s empty dark streets, this city never sleeps!  The lights, the 360 degree harbor skyline, trendy night spots, night markets and street hustlers selling “genuine copy watches”  and “real copy handbags”…and windows without bars!  For the first time in months, I could walk around without feeling marred down with tension and fear. 

The first night I endulged in luxuries by taking a long, leisurely shower.  I stood there letting the water wash PNG from my body and mind.  Then I turned on the flatscreen and ordered room service from my fluffy bed!

The next morning I strolled the streets and popped into a coffee shop for an expresso and bagel..savoring each bite as I people watched from the cafe window front.  Appearances are evidently important, no tatty second hand clothes here.  These trendy, multicultural people hop in and out oft the subway and shops wearing the latest high end fashion.  Gucci suits, Coach bags, and knee high boots.  

Kowloon is a shoppers paradise.  From shopping centers boasting names such as Vivian Westwood, Prada, Tiffany to bargain markets selling packaged plastic bangles, chopsticks and silk bags.  Each shop I entered, I walked out wearing the new leaving behind the old for the trash! Every other store flashed neon lights with the latest high tech inovation. Nikon, Canon, Sony…my eyes were bulging from my head!  And obviously the hustlers could see ”easy target” written clearly across my face.  Long story short, after hours of what I thought was bargaining, I found out that I was ripped completely off.  When I finally found my way back to the one of  hundreds of shops along Nathan Road, they would only refund 70% of my money! I left without my bargain Hong Kong electronics, but with a very expensive lesson learned.

The next day, in an attempt to avoid the endless choices of products and brands, I ventured out to Hong Kong Island.  Subway and tram to The Peak, Hong Kong’s largest tourist attraction overlooking the entire city and Victoria Harbor.  The city was particularly buzzing with people and events for the 2009 Asian Games.  Museums, cultural dances, martial arts.  After a ferry across the harbor, I walked along the waterfront waiting for the worlds largest permanent light and sound show.  Each night at 8:00 over 40 buildings along the 360 degrees of harbor skyline is illuminated by a laser light show.  It was incredible!

Boasting the title of “Culinary capital of Asia” Hong Kong has thousands of resturants.  Chinese traditional dishes, Japanese sushi bars, Balinese and Indian cuisines.  (And of course a McDonalds and Starbucks on every corner) I particularly enjoyed the fresh sashimi and sushi…and Japanese beers and sake! 

Hong Kong has now become one of my favorite cities, a real feast for my senses!

People frequently come and go from PNG.  Short term volunteers, long term volutneers, consultants, anthropology students, researchers, and the occasional, adventurous tourist.  With the holidays approaching and contracts ending, go pinis parties have booked the Madang social calendar.  Dinner at Edens and The Lodge, sports themed parties, and karaoke parties helped to bring normalacy to the disturbing events plaguing the town.  We shared our adventurous travel stories of various destinations across the globe.  And highly emotional stories of escaping Madang’s crime and danger. After the attacks last week highlighted the unpredicable dangers of PNG, several ngos in Madang decided to pull out and even VSO is evacuating all Asian volunteers. The town is on curfew and all alcohol sales have been banned. 

The combination of the increased security risks and a recent shortlisting for a job in Cambodia leaves me pondering if my time here in PNG is finished.  Several months ago I submitted a general application to Handicap International, a ngo targeting persons with disabilities and eliminating extreme poverty.  Last week, I received an email stating I had been shortlisted for an Inclusive Education position, the same work I am doing here in PNG.  After two international phone interviews, things are looking positive for a job beginning January 2010. 

Things were moving quickly as I had my flight booked home for the holidays.  It hit me that there was a possibility I may get the job in Cambodia after I leave PNG and I may not return.  I only had a few days to wrap my head around this idea.  Packing. Goodbyes. 

This was not the first time I have had to pack my life into a bag with a few days notice.  In true ‘Charlye fashion’ I didn’t give it much thought, and enjoyed my days, my friends and the beauty of the moment. 

My potentially ‘last’ day in Madang was one I will never forget.  Morning coffee on the veranda with Marleen and Jolanda overlooking the sea.  An afternoon boat ride to the beach house for food and cheers with the expat community of Madang.  That evening on the ride back to the mainland, we stopped for skinny dipping in phosphorescence.  This was one of the most amazing natural experiences of my life.  Swimming under the stars above the reefs surrounded by the emission of lights produced by the bioluminescent plankton was spectacular.  We took turns diving off the boat and watching with our snorkels as our bodies plunged through the water like a rocket in the sky.  We looked like comets shooting through a star filled sky.  Then we transformed into the most beautiful underwater, sparkling angels as we spread our arms and kicked our legs to the surface.  A fanstactic natural phenomenom!

My next adventure, Hong Kong.  Living in the moment, I am not thinking too much about the possibility of a real goodbye to PNG, a future in Cambodia or even hoildays in the States.  To the unknown again!

The 2007 school census reported 674,169 school-aged children are out of school in PNG. But why? PNG faces challenges beyond that of other poorer countries of Asia and Africa. 85% of the population lives in rural areas where the road to school for children is extraordinary: they climb mountains, cross rivers, and paddle canoes. PNG children come from diverse communities with over 800 cultures and languages.

Education Department officials, in collaboration with partners and donors, have developed a Plan to realize its international commitments such as the Convention on the Rights of the Child, Education for All and Millennium Development Goals. This Plan is titled ‘Achieving Universal Education for a Better Future.’

Within the PNG context, the Plan has three goals for achieving Universal Basic Education as outlined in Papua New Guinea Universal Basic Education Plan 2010-2019 (National Executive Council, July 2009).

1) Access: All children should enter school at a specific age- they should enter elementary prep at the age of 6 years.

2) Retention: All children should complete the elementary and primary cycles of education that constitute basic education- this is nine years of basic education.

3) Quality: All children should reach a required standard of literacy and numeracy at the end of their years of education.

PNG is seeking a breakthrough in universal basic education by abolishing school fees for elementary in 2010. But ending school fees is no magic wand. The surge in enrolment after eliminating school fees brings immense challenges to the entire learning infrastructure, from the physical building, to the class size, to the teachers.

It is expected the Plan will address issues such as expansion of school infrastructure, pre and in-service teacher training, advocacy and awareness raising, water and sanitation facilities in all schools and provisions for remote and overcrowded schools.

But abolishing school fees and building classrooms is not enough. We must build inclusive schools that respect diversity and encourage the participation of all children including street children, girls, children with disabilities, those from remote areas, and children affected by HIV/AIDS.

Much remains to be done in order for PNG to deliver on the global promise to get all children quality primary education by 2015. The success of this Plan will depend on the support and commitment of communities, parents, schools, teachers, churches, ngos, and all levels of government. We all have an important role to play to ensure a happy and healthy future for PNG children.

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